Mr. Abe Connolly first described the use of PVC pipe-tubing for DIY Wind Generator Blades construction. This piping is the most accessible, durable, efficient and inexpensive product for this job. “Schedule 80″ is a highly recommended heavy PVC piping which can be purchased from a hardware store or a plastic supplier.

Highly functional blades can be cut from “Schedule 80″ pipe having an 8″ diameter and 24″ length. It’s easy to cut using a saber-saw. Sturdy pieces of material with a natural curve are the result and these are able to make a generator turn using straight-line blowing winds.

Before you start, you need to have a well-designed plan, the diameter of the windmill to measure the length of the blades and have access to a work-bench, a wood-plane, clamps, etc. A saber-saw with a medium blade will cut the pipe effectively but it will also be slow and dusty. Work clothes and safety glasses are essential!

CUT: Secure one 24-inch piece of pipe to the work bench. Using an angle-iron, draw 3 straight lines along the length of the pipe at 5 1/4 inch intervals. By following your guidelines, you will be able to cut 3 curved-strips, all equal in size.

Two blades can be cut with the saber saw from each of the 3 curved-strips and you will end up with six blades, although only three will be necessary for each unit. This is done easily by clamping one of the strips to the work bench, sawing it on the diagonal from one corner to the middle, then flipping it over to cut from the opposing corner to meet the previous cut at the the mid-point. Round off one end of the blades, or shape a point, so that you have a finished “blade” look. The other end will be left unshaped.

SHAPE: Sand the long sides of the blades into an air-foil so as to send as much wind as possible to the generator. The lead side should be rounded and the trail side should be well-tapered. This step, when done carefully, will ensure greater efficiency and low noise-levels. A 2″ space should be left without sanding at the rough end of the pipe for the placement of bolts and drill-holes. You will need only two 1/4″ bolts for fastening the blades to the generator.

FINISH: The blade surface should be coated, or “finished” properly for reliability, performance and endurance. The blade base, or “root”, of the blade needs a thick coat of highly durable laminate for strength, and a long, functional life. Coating the bolts will also increase their grip.

Sprint IPT is a leader in primer-fill application for this purpose. It is available as a proxy resin for dry infusion or as a reinforcement called “prep rep”. Sprint’s products are cost-effective and 100% guaranteed against air-pockets or “voids”. A typical surface-finish consists of a gel- or fiber-primer followed by a coat of paint. Once your PVC blades are well laminated and secured, they may be painted white or in the colors-of-the-rainbow to reflect your care for your wallet and for the world.

Want to find out more about Wind Generator Blades, then visit Sharon Taylor’s site on how to choose the best Wind Generator Blades for your needs.

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